GREEN ROOM
Torrey Pines - San Diego, California, 2024
Limited Edition of 95
Back home at Torrey Pines, a place that is so close to my heart where I learned to surf and began my journey as an artist, I recently swam out on a crisp winter morning with solid swell hoping to create a great image from inside the barrel. Joining me this morning was Saxon Chang, an emerging artist and son of legendary surfing photographer Aaron Chang who originally taught me in this exact place a decade prior how to shoot images from the water in special waterproof housings. It’s a perfect spot for water shots, surrounded by cliffs and often has a stiff offshore wind that funnels down the deep inland canyon where I grew up in my childhood home. All morning Saxon and I swam with our cameras making images, running back and forth to the beach trading our cameras for surfboards and catching set waves all to ourselves. It was up there with some of the best days of surf i’ve ever seen at Torrey Pines.